Often referred to as "tent cookery", the cookery of Libya is not sophisticated but is tasty and healthy. In addition to staples which include milk, oil, semolina, rice, dates, vegetables and pasta products, meats are generally cooked in ways that make for easily digestible dishes.
In this devotedly Moslem land, many eating habits are governed by strict tradition. At dinner, for example, each course is served on a common platter and guests are expected to eat by helping themselves from around the edges of the platters. The food in the very center of each tray is never eaten as it is intended as an offering to heaven.
In the most traditional homes, beverages are not served with meals. Only after the last tray has been cleared from the table, a communal vessel (guerba) containing spring water or milk makes the round of those participating in the meal. The person drinking should not breathe into the bowl, and must remove it from his lips before beginning to breathe again. After everyone has drunk his or her fill, meals are concluded with coffee and a pipe of tobacco.
Because the dietary laws laid down in the Koran are similar to those maintained by Jews, maintaining kashrut was not a problem in Libya, and Moslems and Jews enjoy similar diets.
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1/2 kg. gr. chickpeas
2 bay leaves
2 hard-boiled egg yolks, chopped and sieved
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 Tbs. onion, finely chopped
3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 Tbsp. capers
salt as required
Soak the chickpeas overnight in cold water. Add the bay leaf and 2 tsp. of salt, cover and cook over a medium flame until the chickpeas are tender (about 1 1/2 hours), adding more water if necessary. Drain well.
In a small mixing bowl put the egg yolks and into this beat the oil and vinegar with a wire whisk. Stir in the onion, garlic, 2 Tbsp. of the parsley, capers and the cooked chickpeas. Refrigerate overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before serving and just before serving sprinkle over with the remaining parsley.
Serves 6-8.
12 baby eggplants, with stems intact
3 cups red wine vinegar
1 cup olive oil
8 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 1/2 Tbsp. each salt and ground cumin
2 - 3 dried red chili peppers
1/2 tsp. oregano
black pepper to taste
Make a 1" (2 1/2 cm) slit in each eggplant. Place the eggplants in a saucepan with a large amount of lightly salted boiling water and cook until just tender (about 10-12 minutes). Drain, cool and transfer the eggplants to a large crock or jar.
In a mixing bowl, combine the remaining ingredients with about 4 cups of water. Pour this mixture over the eggplants. If necessary, add water so that the eggplants are covered. Cover the container tightly and let stand at room temperature for 3-4 days.
To serve, drain and serve whole.
Serves 6-8.
1 kg. very small fresh sardines
1 1/4 cups flour, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large carrot, sliced thinly
1 large onion, sliced thinly
6 cloves garlic, halved
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 bouquet garni made by tying together
3 sprigs parsley, 3 sprigs dill and 1 bay leaf
2 - 3 dried red peppers, chopped finely
1 tsp. salt
9 whole black peppercorns
chopped parsley for garnish
Roll the sardines in the seasoned flour. In a skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fish until golden on both sides. Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon, drain on paper toweling and distribute on a serving platter. Pour off half the remaining oil from the pan.
Reheat the remaining oil and in this gently saute the carrot, onion and garlic until the carrots are softened but not yet browned. Add the vinegar and wine, mix well and then add the bouquet garni, red pepper, salt and peppercorns. Simmer gently for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard the bouquet garni, pour the contents of the skillet over the fish, let cool and then refrigerate, lightly covered, for 36-48 hours before serving. Immediately before serving sprinkle over the parsley.
Serves 6-8.
1 kg. ground beef or lamb
1/2 cup beef stock
1/2 tsp. bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp. each salt and black pepper
beef or sheep intestines as required
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. parsley, chopped finely
1/2 tsp. hot paprika (or more or less to taste)
1/2 tsp. each grill spice and dried oregano
juice of 2 lemons
In a mixing bowl, combine the ground meat with the beef stock, bicarbonate of soda and 1/2 tsp. each of the salt and black pepper. Mix well.
Clean the intestines well, cutting off any fat that may cling and washing thoroughly. Stuff the intestines with the ground meat mixture and by using kitchen string form sausages about 6" (15 cm) long.
Heat 3 Tbsp. of the oil in a heavy skillet and fry the sausages until dark brown on all sides. Transfer the sausages to a saucepan with a small amount of boiling water and cook, maintaining a low boil, for 15 minutes. Remove from the water and refrigerate overnight.
Shortly before serving, place the sausages in a slow oven and heat through. Prepare a sauce by combining the remaining olive oil with the remaining salt and black pepper, the paprika, grill spice, parsley, oregano and lemon juice. Serve with the sauce in a gravy boat.
Serves 6-8.
Sources: Embassy of Israel; Israeli Foreign Ministry; Ruth's Kitchen; Manischewitz; Rogov's Ramblings- Reprinted with permission.
Daniel Rogov is the restaurant and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz. He is also the senior writer for Wine and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary and wine articles to newspapers in Europe and the United States.
