Georgia
Even though it is located in the Caucasus region
of the former Soviet Union, Georgia
has a style of cookery that has a closer kinship
to that of the Middle East than to that of Russia.
Festive dinners start with a large variety
of zakuski (hors d'oeuvres). Often
set outdoors on a single table, hosts are
valued by the length of the zakuski table
they set. Cheeses, vegetables, pickled garlic
cloves, and sprigs of coriander and tarragon
sit alongside platters of smoked sturgeon,
caviar, sliced hard sausages, pickled mushrooms
and plums. And, because Georgians take enormous
pride in the wines they produce at home, as
many as twelve different kinds of wine may
adorn the table. Vodka, drunk neat, ice cold
and in a single gulp from tiny glasses is
always available and wealthier families serve
the local version of champagne.
One of the things that gives Georgian cookery
its unique flavor is the liberal use of fruits
and nuts together with meat and poultry -
walnut and plum sauces being favorites. The
region also boasts an enormous variety of
heavy but delicious breads that vary in taste
and texture from village to village.
Click Any Dish to Reveal Recipe:
1 chicken (about 1 1/2-2 kgs.)
1 small onion
1 sprig each tarragon and parsley
olive oil as required
400 gr. walnuts, shelled and finely ground
6 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 medium onion, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/4 cup coriander, chopped
hot paprika or several dashes of Tabasco,
to taste
2 cups chicken stock
1/4 tsp. fenugreek
1/4 tsp. each turmeric and coriander
Wash the chicken under cold running water
and then dry well. Place the whole onion,
tarragon and parsley in the cavity of the
bird, and then brush the skin with olive oil.
Place the chicken in a roasting pan and put
in an oven that has been preheated to very
hot. Immediately reduce the oven temperature
to medium and roast the bird until it is tender
(40 - 45 minutes).
Heat about 1 Tbsp. of olive oil in a skillet
and saute the chopped onion until it is translucent.
Remove from the heat and add the remaining
ingredients, mixing well. Serve this spice
mixture in a sauceboat. Serves 4.
This bread comes from Georgia,
where it was made by Jews to celebrate the
holiday of Shavuot,
and by Christians to celebrate the holiday
of Pentecost.
1 cup lukewarm milk
2 packages (60 gr.) dry yeast
1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. sugar
about 4 cups of flour
125 gr. butter, softened
675 gr. mild Camembert or Brie-type cheese
375 gr. feta cheese or other tangy goat
cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
about 2 Tbsp. melted butter
In a small glass, mix together 1/2 cup of
the milk, the yeast and 1 tsp. of the sugar.
Let stand at room temperature for 10 - 15
minutes and then add this mixture to the remaining
milk.
Place 3 cups of flour into a large bowl and
make a well in the center. Add the milk, remaining
sugar and the softened butter. Stir with a
rubber spatula until a firm dough ball is
formed.
Turn the dough onto a floured work surface
and knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as
needed to prevent the dough from sticking.
When the dough is elastic and no longer sticky,
transfer to a greased bowl, turning it so
that it is coated on all sides. Cover with
a lightly dampened cloth and let stand in
a warm place until doubled in bulk (about
1 1/2 hours).
Punch the dough down and let rise again until
doubled in bulk (about 30 minutes).
Grate the Camembert cheese and crumble the
goat cheese. Combine the two, add the egg
and mix well.
Punch the dough down again and then roll
out on a lightly floured surface to a circle
of about 50 cm. in diameter. Fold the dough
into quarters and place the point in the center
of a 23 cm. pan with sides about 5 cm high.
Unfold the dough and let the excess hang over
the sides.
Spoon the cheese mixture onto the dough and
then pick up the excess dough hanging over
the edges and pleat it over the cheese. Make
sure all the pleats go in the same direction.
Gather the ends of the dough in the center
and twist into a small knob. Let stand for
10 minutes.
Brush the top of the dough with melted butter
and bake on the center shelf of an oven that
has been pre-heated to 190° Celsius (375°
Fahrenheit), until the bread is golden (about
1 hour). Remove from the oven and let cool
in the pan before serving. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
1/2 kg. canned or 4 cups cooked kidney
beans
1 clove garlic
1/2 tsp. crushed, dried chili peppers
1 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. minced coriander leaves
salt to taste
1/2 cup damson plum jam
about 2 Tbsp. wine vinegar
If using canned beans, strain the beans and
rinse lightly under cold running water.
Drain the beans thoroughly and turn into
a serving bowl. With a mortar and pestle or
blender, crush the garlic together with the
chili peppers, basil, coriander and a pinch
or two of salt. Work to a smooth paste.
Rub the jam through a fine sieve and mix
together with the herb paste, thinning with
vinegar, a few drops at a time. Season the
sauce to taste with salt and gently fold it
into the beans with a wooden spoon. Let stand
at room temperature for 2 - 3 hours before
serving. Serves 6.
Note: If the fish suggested in this recipe
are not available, substitute trout fillets
and/or bass fillets.
1/4 kg. dried apricots, pitted
1 cup port wine
2 cups burghul (cracked wheat)
1/4 kg. dried prunes, pitted and halved
1/4 cup parve margarine
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
2 stalks celery, without leaves, chopped
finely
1 tsp. sage
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup pine nuts
1 cup beef stock
1 turkey (about 4 1/2 kgs.) dressed
In a mixing bowl, soak the apricots in the
port overnight. Remove the apricots with a
slotted spoon and set aside. Reserve the wine.
In a separate bowl, soak the cracked wheat
in 4 cups of water for 2 hours and then drain
well.
Melt the margarine in a large heavy skillet
and saute the onion and celery until the onions
are translucent. Add the cracked wheat and
saute for 5 minutes longer. Season with the
sage and salt and pepper to taste, add the
prunes, apricots, pine nuts and stock and
simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. With this
mixture, stuff the bird.
Truss the bird well and place on a rack in
an oven that has been preheated to very hot.
Immediately reduce the oven temperature to
medium and bake, allowing about 55 minutes
per kg., basting often with the wine and pan
drippings. When the bird is done, let it cool
for 10 minutes (or slightly longer) before
carving. If desired, make a gravy from the
drippings and serve in a sauceboat. (Serves
6 - 8).
Sources: Embassy of Israel; Israeli
Foreign Ministry; Ruth's
Kitchen; Manischewitz; Rogov's
Ramblings- Reprinted with permission.
Daniel Rogov is the restaurant
and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz.
He is also the senior writer for Wine
and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary
and wine articles to newspapers in Europe
and the United States.
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