Regional Jewish Foods:
Ethiopia

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It is said that within the mountain ranges of Ethiopia one may come across fire-breathing dragons. The dragons in question are actually relatively small lizards, and if they do breathe fire it is probably due to berbere, the most characteristic ingredient in Ethiopian cookery.

This palate-searing reddish paste, found in most Ethiopian kitchens and used in preparing many local specialties, consists of hot red chili peppers, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cardamom, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, white pepper, salt and turmeric. There are various traditions that besides adding magnificent flavor to many traditional dishes, this especially potent mixture will also add to one's longevity and cure rheumatism, among other claims.

Of all the cuisines of East Africa, the most highly developed and the one least exotic to the Western palate is that of Ethiopia. It is a style of cookery that has combined the best principles of the Arab kitchen with the use of classic African ingredients, such as peanuts, bananas, rice, coconuts, spinach, corn and beans.

Ethiopian Jews, while adhering strictly to the laws of kashrut, also made a major contribution to this national cuisine. Some five hundred years ago, Jewish merchant families of Addis Ababa introduced the use of curry powder and other aspects of Indian cookery; while this might be thought of as mere sophistication, it produced a culinary style that is not difficult to admire.

The impact of the Ethiopian kitchen has started to make itself felt in Israel. In Tel Aviv, Haifa and Be'er Sheva, for example, immigrants have opened restaurants, mostly in the area of the central bus station. Featuring traditional food in settings that are comfortable but simple, it is possible to dine at these places in goodly fashion for prices that are remarkably reasonable.

The following traditional recipes, which will sit comfortably on any Western table, represent a festive meal that might be found in an upper-middle class Jewish home in Addis Ababa as well as throughout Israel.

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Green Beans & Peanuts

3 Tbsp. olive oil (or more if the skillet dries out)
1 large onion, chopped
3/4 cup unsalted, skinned peanuts
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
675 gr. (1 1/2 lb.) green beans
1 large green pepper, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a skillet and saute the onions, nuts and garlic until the onions are translucent. To this mixture add the green beans, green pepper, salt and black pepper. Continue to saute until the beans are tender. Serve hot.

Serves 6

Lamb Soup

675 gr. stewing lamb, cut into 2" (5 cm.) cubes
2 zucchini
2 medium tomatoes
3 Tbsp. olive oil
6 spring onions, chopped coarsely
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each black pepper, salt and turmeric
1/4 tsp. caraway seed
pinch saffron

Place all the ingredients in a heavy kettle and stir together gently. Pour over 6 cups of boiling water or stock and cook, covered, over a low flame until the meat is tender (about 2 hours). Skim occasionally during the cooking process. After the meat is tender, remove and discard the tomatoes. Serve hot, dividing the meat and vegetables equally.

Serves 6

Spiced Chicken Wings

2 1/2 kgs. chicken wings, well cleaned and with tips trimmed
6 medium onions, chopped
1 1/2 cups soy sauce
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. each cinnamon, ground cloves, white pepper
3 - 4 thin slices of fresh ginger, chopped or 1 tsp ground ginger

Put the chicken wings in a large pot with lightly salted water. When the water boils, add the onions and let boil for 15 minutes.

In a separate saucepan, heat the soy sauce and seasonings, but do not allow to boil.

Drain the chicken wings and transfer to the saucepan with the soy sauce mixture. Cook over a low heat for 15 minutes.

Remove the chicken from the soy mixture and let the sauce drain. Place the wings in a baking dish and bake in a medium oven until the wings are browned and crisp (about 1/2 hour). Serve hot.

Serves 6

Sources: Embassy of Israel; Israeli Foreign Ministry; Ruth's Kitchen; Manischewitz; Rogov's Ramblings- Reprinted with permission.

Daniel Rogov is the restaurant and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz. He is also the senior writer for Wine and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary and wine articles to newspapers in Europe and the United States.