No group of Israelis is more fiercely proud of their history and cultural heritage than the Bedouin, who had a profound influence on the culture of the people they encountered, and in no area was that influence felt more than in the kitchen.

The basic dining habits of the Bedouin, most of whom now live in the Negev and in the northern region of the country, have remained unchanged over time. They eat simple foods that reflect their pastoral roots. Based on uncomplicated but careful preparations, the everyday diet of those Bedouin who continue to maintain a primarily nomadic way of life relies heavily on bread and dates, lamb, mutton, goat and occasionally camel meat, and the milk of these animals, along with game and wild berries found in the desert. Despite this seeming simplicity, Bedouin cooking is often delicate, aromatic and rich with natural flavors.

The rules of courtesy and hospitality that surround traditional Bedouin dining are also rich. To dine in a Bedouin home is to accept not only the hospitality, but the protection of one's host. So formalized are the rules of hospitality that it is known that for three days after a meal, even if a guest has traveled many miles in that time, he remains under the protection of the family with which he dined. Although Bedouin rules of dining etiquette vary considerably from those of most Western homes, they are no less refined and delicate. At traditional meals, nearly all food is eaten with the fingers, a custom far more sophisticated and difficult to master than most Westerners realize. With the exception of couscous and other grain dishes, one should use only three fingers in eating - and only the right hand.

At many such meals, the very first offering is a bowl of fresh herbs - parsley, mint, chives, dill, coriander, tarragon and spring onions - with which to clean the palate and hone the appetite.

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Lamb on Vine Leaves | Mutton Ragout

Lamb on Vine Leaves

8 vine leaves
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 kg. lamb, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
1/2 tsp. allspice
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup pine nuts
juice of 1 lemon

If using fresh vine leaves, soak them in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes. If using canned leaves, soak for 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In either case, after soaking rinse and gently squeeze dry between toweling.

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and saute the meat and onions together until the meat is browned on all sides. Season with the allspice and salt and pepper to taste.

Place 4 of the leaves in a greased shallow casserole dish and spread the meat mixture on the leaves. Sprinkle over with the pine nuts, cover with the remaining leaves, sprinkle with the lemon juice and bake in a medium oven for 5 minutes. Place the casserole dish in a large oven pan with about 2 cm. of hot water and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Serves 4-6

Mutton Ragout

1/4 kg. whole chickpeas
1 leg of mutton (about 2 kgs.)
1/4 kg. fatty pastrami*
1/4 cup chicken fat
1 large onion, chopped
4 medium tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each thyme and basil
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup white grape juice
1 cup breadcrumbs

Soak the chickpeas overnight in a large amount of lightly salted water. Drain the chickpeas well, and cook in lightly salted water until they are nearly soft.

Cut the mutton off the bone and then into cubes. Cut the pastrami into cubes as well.

In a large heavy saucepan, melt the chicken fat and saute the onions until they are translucent. Add the mutton and pastrami cubes and brown well on both sides. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, basil, bay leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the grape juice, rapidly bring to the boil and immediately lower the heat, cover the skillet and simmer very gently until the meat is tender (about 2 hours).

When the mutton is nearly ready, transfer the mixture to an ovenproof casserole, add the chickpeas, correct the seasoning and sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top. Place in a slow oven until a slight crust has formed on the top (about 1 hour). Serve hot.

* I have substituted fatty pastrami for the more traditional fatty parts of sheep intestine.

Serves 4-6

Sources:
Embassy of Israel; Israeli Foreign Ministry; Ruth's Kitchen; Manischewitz; Rogov's Ramblings- Reprinted with permission.

Daniel Rogov is the restaurant and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz. He is also the senior writer for Wine and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary and wine articles to newspapers in Europe and the United States.

Israeli Foods: Bedouin Foods