Kidneys Apicius

by Daniel Rogov

2 1/4 cups consomme
1 cup rice
6 Tbsp. margarine
2 shallots or the white parts of 4 spring onions, chopped finely
4 veal kidneys, with some of the fat left intact, sliced thinly
1/2 cup Madeira or Port wine
1 cup brown sauce (ideally home made)
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/4 tsp. ground coriander

In a saucepan, bring the consomme to a boil and cook the rice until it is done. Set aside to keep warm.

Melt 3 Tbsp. of the margarine in a large heavy skillet and saute the shallots for one minute. Add the kidney slices and saute over a high flame just until the red color disappears. Add the Madeira and simmer briskly for about two minutes. Reduce the flame, add the brown sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat through without allowing to boil again.

Mix the remaining margarine together with the rice. Add the pine nuts, coriander, salt and pepper to taste and toss well. To serve, mound the rice in the center of a preheated serving dish and surround with the kidney slices. Spoon over the sauce in which the kidneys were cooked. (Serves 4 - 6)

Daniel Rogov is the restaurant and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz. He is also the senior writer for Wine and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary and wine articles to newspapers in Europe and the United States.